One afternoon this August, at the Venezuelan Presidential palace of
Miraflores, a crowd waited for President Nicolás Maduro to set out the
country’s political future. The palace is in downtown Caracas, where it
is overlooked by slum-covered hills and by the Cuartel de la Montaña, a
former fortress where Hugo Chávez, Maduro’s mentor and predecessor, is
buried. The speech was taking place in the Salón Ayacucho, a
beige-walled room enlivened by a huge expanse of red carpet and, on this
day, by clusters of people wearing red. During Chávez’s tenure, his
partisans—the
chavistas—had adopted red as
their preferred color, and so red T-shirts and baseball caps (Venezuela
is obsessed with baseball) are as common at
chavista gatherings as cowboy boots are at the Austin statehouse.
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